If your dog suddenly stops wagging its tail and its tail looks sad and droopy (even broken!) it might have Acute Caudal Myopathy. It’s commonly known by several terms:

Dead tail
Cold tail
Swimmer’s tail
Limber tail
Limp tail

Dead tail can occur in any breed with a tail. But the pointing and retrieving dogs are particularly susceptible to it.
What is it?
Dead tail results from overexertion of the tail muscles. It is an acute inflammation. The tail goes limp and the dog may have pain near the base of the tail. Almost all affected dogs will return to normal within a week.
The syndrome seems to be caused by muscle injury possibly brought on by overexertion, says Janet Steiss, DVM, PhD. Steiss is coauthor of the 1999 study on limber tail published in the Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine. The study linked the condition to damage in muscles at the base of the tail. Researchers used electromyography (EMG), imaging, and tissue testing on dogs affected with limber tail and concluded that the coccygeal muscles near the base of the tail had sustained damage. The damage did not affect the tail bone, only the tail muscles. There was also no indication of joint and ligament damage so they concluded that dead tail is a muscular issue.
What causes it?

The exact cause is unknown but there are a few key risk factors:

1. Overexertion.
Vigorous activity within the previous 24 hours. Your dog may seem fine immediately following the activity but wakes up in pain the next day. Dead tail is not always associated with swimming or water. It can happen after a heavy day of work that involves a lot of tail action.

2. Exposure to very cold water or cold weather.
3. Lack of conditioning.
Overexertion seems to be a common precursor, especially if a dog is thrown into rigourous exercise when he or she is not in good condition. Gradually condition your dog to avoid muscle fatigue.

Symptoms
1. Limp tail. The tail may droop lifeless between your dog’s rear legs or it may stick out a couple of inches before drooping.

2. Difficulty sitting or standing because dogs use their tails for balance.
3. Difficulty finding a comfortable sitting position. You may see him shifting his weight from side to side. The dog may also be reluctant to squat to defecate.

4. Off food. Your dog may be so distracted by his pain that he might not feel like eating.

5. Dog may have raised hair near the base of the tail because of swelling.

6. Occurs after extreme activity.
Dead tail will show up soon after the triggering event usually within hours or overnight. Determine what factors caused the dead tail and avoid them in the future.
7. Good vital signs and dog is still eating and drinking normally despite the floppy tail. Dead tail usually does not hamper most dogs’ ability to function normally.

8. The tail shows gradual improvement over a few days.

9 Occurs after sudden climate change.

What to Do If Your Dog Has DEAD Tail

1. Check with your vet to rule out any other possible ailments. There are some medical problems that resemble dead tail:
• Tail fracture
• Lower back pain from a diseased intervertebral disk or osteoarthritis
• Infection or inflammation of the anal glands
• Prostate disease
2. Rest your dog until the tail returns to normal. And then ease your dog into any intense activity.

3. Give anti-inflammatory medication within 24 hours. Anecdotal reports suggest that anti-inflammatory drugs administered within 24 hours shortens recovery time. Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are commonly used to reduce pain, though they don’t usually affect swelling.

5. To hasten recovery for competition dogs, visit a muscle therapist.

6. Keep bedding dry especially in cold, wet weather

-canineworks.com

Things You Didn’t Know About Golden Retrievers

 1. Golden Retrievers instinctively love to swim. They’re always up for a game of fetch in the lake.

 2. Golden Retrievers are often used on search and rescue teams because of their keen sense of smell and tracking abilities.

 3. They make great therapy dogs.

 4. Dudley Coutts Marjoribanks, also known as Lord Tweedmouth, developed the breed in Scotland during the late 19th century.

 5. They are considered to be the 4th smartest dog breed (in line behind Border Collies, Poodles, and German Shepherds).

 6. They’re the third most popular dog breed in America.

 7. They have water-repellent double coats that shed seasonally. (Brush your Golden once a week to minimize the shedding!)

 8. The AKC officially recognized Golden Retrievers as a breed in 1925.

 9. Presidents Ford and Reagan both had Golden Retrievers as pets while in office.

 10. They are known to take care of other animals, even cats.

 11. Golden Retrievers are known to become sad and even depressed when left alone for long periods of time. Experts say they shouldn’t be left alone for more than seven hours.

 12. They make great watch dogs, but not-so-great security dogs. They’ll bark loudly at strangers, but once they physically interact with a person, a Golden becomes more friendly.

 13. Goldens are a popular choice to star in movies and television shows because they are easy to train. (Air Bud, Full House, Homeward Bound and Duke from Bush’s Baked Beans commercials!)

 -Countryliving.com

In our quest to keep our dogs happy and healthy, we are always looking for products that are 1) Not chemical based and 2) that WORK! Dr. Mercola — http://shop.mercola.com/category/548/1/flea-tick — has a monthly topical product called “Spot On”, made to repel fleas, ticks and mosquitos. They also make an herbal repellent collar that lasts up to 4 months! Neither of them contain harsh ingredients, only effective herbal ingredients.

–Thank you to our friends and fellow breeders -Jeannine and Rebecca, who swear by these products and have brought them to our attention!

We’ve all been there. You’re taking your dog for a walk, enjoying the great outdoors, perhaps breathing in the fresh air. In that moment of distraction, it happens. Your dog has found something truly repulsive and is rolling around on top of it, paws in the air, thoroughly coating himself in whatever foul substance he’s unearthed.

Whether it is something dead, poop, or just one of those unknown, smelly things dogs find, you’ve probably asked yourself–and your dog–why on earth dogs do this. After all, dogs’ noses are incredibly powerful. Shouldn’t strong odors be overwhelming? Does he really think of it as doggy cologne? Where did this behavior come from?

Veterinarians and behaviorists are not entirely sure why dogs roll in smelly things, but they do have a few ideas. One of the most widely known theories is that dogs do this to cover their own scent, hiding from prey or other predators.

While this sounds logical, Pat Goodmann, a researcher at Wolf Park in Indiana, has studied scent rolling in wolves and has another explanation.

Her research suggests that wolves roll in scents they find particularly interesting, not to disguise themselves, but to bring that information back to the pack. Rolling in a decaying carcass, or even fresher meat, could be a way for wolves to tell members of the pack, “look what I found.” This behavior could make it easier for wolves to track down an abandoned kill, or just to trade information about their environment.

There could also be a social aspect of scent rolling. A pack of wolves may all roll in the same scent, according to canid behavior expert Simon Gadbois, perhaps to create a sense of togetherness or group smell.

Whatever the reason, one thing is certain: the last thing we want is to share the joy of our dog’s disgusting discoveries.

Behaviorist Sophia Yin has a few suggestions about how to prevent your dog from rolling. According to Yin, your best chance of stopping your dog from coming back from the beach smelling like dead fish is to have a good recall. Irresistibly stinky scents are challenging to overcome, but carrying treats or a desirable toy, and working on the recall command regularly can improve your odds of escaping an odorous situation. You can also scan ahead for potentially smelly objects, like poop, and distract your dog from them with a fun game or reward.

If all else fails, keep your dog on a leash in areas with known stinky treasures.

-AKC.org

When it comes to keeping our dogs healthy, many owners overlook the importance of oral hygiene. According to the American Veterinary Dental College, it’s estimated that the majority of dogs show signs of periodontal disease by just three years old. Since the primary sign of early dental disease is bad breath, it often goes unnoticed by owners because they simply think that bad breath is something dogs just happen to have. Sure, it’s not minty fresh, but your dog’s breath also shouldn’t be bad enough to make you gag.

Periodontal disease can cause some serious health issues for our canine companions, so it’s essential to maintain adequate oral hygiene. Untreated dental disease can cause tooth loss, and it can lead to painful abscesses and systemic infections throughout your dog’s entire body. This is always bad news, especially when it comes with an increased risk of permanent jaw damage and heart disease. Both of these things have been linked to long-term periodontal disease in our dogs. So how can we keep our dogs’ teeth clean? Here are some tips!

Brushing Your Dog’s Teeth

Brushing your dog’s teeth might sound silly, but it’s an excellent way to prevent plaque buildup. You don’t need to brush your dog’s teeth daily, although the more often the better. Most dogs aren’t too fond of the idea at first, but you can easily train your dog to have his teeth brushed the same way you would to have his nails trimmed. There are several options you can take when brushing teeth. First, you’ll want to get toothpaste that is made specifically for dogs. This is because toothpaste for humans contains ingredients that are toxic to our pets. Plus, dog toothpaste usually comes in a delicious chicken or peanut butter flavor. Second, you can use either a canine toothbrush or a brush that fits over your fingertip. Ask your veterinarian about what’s best, and see what you and your dog prefer.

Dog Tooth Wipes

For those that are unable to brush teeth or simply want to switch up their cleaning techniques, tooth wipes are a great solution. Tooth wipes are made to be rubbed against your dog’s teeth to help remove plaque. They work similarly to toothbrushes, but are not able to get into the tiny nooks and crannies that a brush does. Still, they are a great way to clean your pet’s teeth and are often easier to manage than a toothbrush with toothpaste.

Dog Dental Treats

Dogs love treats, and dental treats are a very good way to improve your pup’s dental health. These treats are made specifically to remove plaque buildup and often contain ingredients that freshen breath and clean your dog’s mouth. They are generally much more appreciated by our dogs than a toothbrush or tooth wipes, and they do a great job of keeping our dog’s mouth clean. These treats come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and flavors, and you are sure to find something your dog loves.

Dog Chews

There are hundreds of different types of chews, but almost all of them have teeth-cleaning properties. The act of chewing actually benefits your dog’s oral health, in and of itself, regardless of what is being chewed on. The gnawing scrapes plaque off your dog’s teeth, and many all-natural treats made from meat contain enzymes that help promote dental health. Chews like cow ears, bully sticks, and chicken strips are a great way to keep your dog happy and healthy. If you’re looking for something without any calories, there are many long-lasting rubber or nylon chews that do the job, as well.

Professional Cleanings

Perhaps the best way to ensure your dog’s oral health is to have him undergo a professional cleaning by a veterinarian. Your veterinarian knows what’s best for your dog’s teeth and will be able to address any issues she finds. Although much more expensive than the other tips we’ve mentioned, a professional dental cleaning is the best way to maintain your dog’s dental hygiene. Your veterinarian is experienced in preventing, locating, and treating any issues that might go unnoticed by even the most dedicated dog owner. If there is one option you choose to promote your dog’s dental health, we suggest visiting your veterinarian for a professional exam.

-AKC.org

Whether you prefer natural products for your dog, are a regular DIY’er, or just want to save some money, making your own dog shampoo is one way to accomplish all three. The ingredients may already be in your pantry, and if not, they’re easy to find in stores. They’re as basic as baking soda, vinegar, and ordinary dish soap. One thing you don’t want to use is shampoo made for humans. The pH level of our skin is different from that of dogs: ours ranges from 5.5-5.6, while dogs’ pH is between 6.2-7.4. Human shampoo will be too acidic for dogs and can cause skin irritations. If you’re going to mix up your own dog shampoo, you’ll be aiming for a pH level around 7. Luckily, others have done the math for you and devised simple homemade dog shampoo recipes.

Basic Homemade Dog Shampoo

3-Ingredient Simple Shampoo Dish detergent is formulated to cut through grease and will do a great job of washing away oils that accumulate on your dog’s coat and skin. White vinegar has antibacterial and deodorant properties and will leave his coat shiny and clean. Just be careful not to get any in his eyes. Ingredients: 2 cups of warm water 1/4 cup of dish soap 1/2 cup of white vinegar Combine all ingredients in a spray bottle and shake to mix. Then wet your dog’s coat with warm water and spray with shampoo, avoiding his eyes. Work the shampoo into his coat, creating a thick lather. Rinse thoroughly and repeatedly, even if you think all signs of shampoo are gone. Then dry him off, and he’s good to go!

Homemade Dog Shampoos for Dry Skin

If your dog has itchy, dry, or sensitive skin, there are a few things you can add to the shampoo to relieve his symptoms. You can make a shampoo that has glycerin, which can be found in pharmacies, some grocery stores, and online and aloe vera gel. Or you can make an oatmeal shampoo. Oatmeal is known for its soothing properties and is found in many commercial grooming products. Aloe Vera and Glycerin Shampoo Ingredients: 1 quart of water 1 cup of baby shampoo or nontoxic dish soap 1 cup of white or apple cider vinegar 1/3 cup of glycerin 2 tablespoons of aloe vera gel Mix all ingredients in spray bottle and shake to thoroughly combine. Apply to your dog, avoiding his eyes and work into his coat. Rinse.

Oatmeal Dog Shampoo for Dry Skin Ingredients: 1 cup of uncooked oatmeal 1/2 cup of baking soda 1 quart of warm water Grind the oatmeal in a coffee grinder or food processor until it’s the consistency of flour. Pour into a large bowl and mix in baking soda. Add warm water and stir until incorporated. Wet your dog with warm water and then lather him up with your homemade shampoo. Work into his coat and allow it to sit for a few minutes, if he’ll let you. Then rinse thoroughly and dry.

Homemade Shampoo to Repel and Kill Fleas

You can even use homemade dog shampoo to fight fleas. The trick is to add lavender essential oil, which is thought to be a natural antiparasitic and antibacterial. Some DIY’ers combine several oils, including peppermint, eucalyptus, rosemary, and lavender, but if you have to choose just one, lavender will do.

It’s important to note that not all essential oils are acceptable. Some dogs have severe toxicity and immune-mediated reactions after exposure to some essential oils (potpourri being the worst). Never apply 100 percent essential oils from aromatherapy products on your pet, especially on broken skin. Also, make sure your dog doesn’t ingest essential oils. If you have questions, always contact your veterinarian.

Flea-Repellent Dog Shampoo with Essential Oils

Ingredients: 10 ounces of warm water 2 ounces of aloe vera gel 1 tablespoon of Castile soap 2 drops of lavender essential oil Note: you may also add 2 drops each of rosemary, peppermint, and eucalyptus essential oils. Combine all ingredients in a clean spray bottle and shake to combine thoroughly. Wet your dog with warm water, spray on shampoo and work into his coat, especially in harder to reach places, making sure not to get any in his eyes. Rinse thoroughly.

There are hundreds of homemade dog shampoo recipes out there, most using some combination of vinegar, which deodorizes and adds shine; Castile soap, or dish soap, which helps the ingredients bind together; and baking soda to balance the acidity of vinegar and water, which is pH neutral. Essentials oils are a nice, organic touch, as well. So next time you and your dog are preparing to bond over bath time, start in the kitchen and mix up some easy, safe, and inexpensive dog shampoo of your own!

-AKC.org

Good grooming will help your dog look and feel his best. Routine grooming sessions also allow you to examine your dog’s coat, teeth, eyes, ears, and nails for signs of problems. How often you need to groom your dog depends on his size, breed, and type of coat.

Brushing

Several brushing sessions a week will keep the average dog neat and clean; daily attention is even better. Brush all the way down to the skin, letting the massaging action stimulate blood circulation and loosen and remove flakes of dandruff.

The kind of equipment you need depends on your dog’s coat texture and length. Longhaired dogs need pin brushes, which have long, round-ended stainless-steel or chrome-plated pins. Short-, medium-, and some long-coated breeds need bristle brushes. There are also slicker brushes for removing mats and dead hair; rubber curry combs to polish smooth coats and remove dead hair; clippers, stripping knives, rakes, hair dryers, and other grooming tools.

When brushing, always check for burrs and other stubborn plant material; mats, which most frequently form behind the ears and under the legs; and any cuts or scrapes on the skin itself.

All dogs shed, though some definitely shed more than others. Regular brushing will help keep shedding under control.

Bathing

Your dog should have regular, but not frequent, baths, depending on the breed and coat of your dog. Too-frequent washing removes natural oils and causes the coat to become dry and harsh.

When necessary, use a mild shampoo formulated for dogs. Stand the dog in a tub or basin, and put cotton balls in his ears and a couple of drops of mineral oil in his eyes. Wet the dog with warm water and apply shampoo from the neck back. After lathering and scrubbing, rinse your dog thoroughly with warm water. Rub vigorously with a towel (he’ll help you with vigorous shaking!), and then blow-dry if necessary. Comb or brush as required.

Nail Trimming

Nails must be kept short for the feet to remain healthy. Long nails interfere with the dog’s gait, making walking awkward or painful. They can also break easily. This usually happens at the base of the nail, where blood vessels and nerves are located, and precipitates a trip to the veterinarian. If you can hear the nails clicking on the floor, they’re too long.

To trim your dog’s nails, use a specially designed clipper. Most have safety guards to prevent you from cutting the nails too short. You want to trim only the ends, before the “quick” which is a blood vessel inside the nail. (You can see where the quick ends on a white nail, but not on a dark nail.) Clip only the hook-like part of the nail that turns down.

Many dogs dislike having their nails trimmed. You can make it a painless procedure by getting your dog used to having his feet handled in puppyhood. Start trimming gently, a nail or two at a time, and your dog will learn that you’re not going to hurt him.

If you accidentally cut the quick, stop the bleeding with some styptic powder. If you find it impossible to clip your dog’s nails, take him to a veterinarian or groomer.

Ear Cleaning

You should clean your dog’s ears once a month, more if he’s prone to ear problems. Clean the outer part of the ear only, using a damp cloth or a cotton swab soaked in mineral oil. Never force anything into the ear. Some dogs need the hair plucked just inside the ear to keep air circulating; ask your veterinarian if this is necessary for your dog.

Eye Cleaning

Clean slight discharges with a moist cotton ball. Do not put anything irritating in your dog’s eyes.

Tooth Brushing

Clean your dog’s teeth frequently with special toothbrushes and toothpaste desgined for dogs. If your dog balks at having his teeth brushed, get him used to it by rubbing his teeth and gums with your finger. Then put a little of the toothpaste on your finger and let him sniff and lick it; do the same with the toothbrush. Make sure to provide chew toys that will help clean his teeth. As your dog gets older, he may have a buildup of tartar that requires special cleaning by a veterinarian.

-AKC.org

Your puppy is rapidly developing his muscles, bones, cognitive abilities, and immune system and needs food that meets his nutritional requirements. That’s why he should be fed a high-quality puppy food that will have the right balance of ingredients and nutritional density to aid his rapid growth. Your breeder may send you home with a supply of the food your puppy has been eating, or at the very least, advise you on what to feed him. If at all possible, stick to that food for at least two weeks; a change in diet can easily upset your dog’s stomach.

Dogs digest food differently than humans, and changes in diet can cause diarrhea and other digestive issues.

Different foods may have different types of proteins, differences in the type and amount of fiber, and a change in the type of healthy bacteria your dog needs to digest his food. If you’re going to switch to a different puppy food, you should do so gradually over five-to-seven days.

Guidelines To Minimizing Upset Stomach In Your Puppy  

• For the first two or three days, mix a greater percentage of old food than new food, about three-quarters of the puppy food he now eats with one-quarter of his new food.
• Then give him equal portions of new and old food for two or three days.
• Follow that with three-quarters new food and one-quarter percent old food.
• After that, his digestive system should be ready to handle only the new food.

Sometimes owners have to switch food abruptly, due to a recall or other unforeseen circumstances. Even in this situation, you can help your puppy adjust to a new diet. Try to find a food that closely matches the existing food in ingredients, types of protein, and amounts of fiber and fat.

Give your puppy smaller meals, watching for diarrhea or other issues. If he does well with the first meal, continue to feed him smaller meals than usual and then gradually get back on your old feeding schedule. A little tummy upset is to be expected, but if he’s vomiting, seems sick, or stops eating entirely, consult your veterinarian.

Unlike humans, dogs don’t crave variety in their diet. High-quality puppy food has all of the ingredients, in the right proportions, to meet their nutritional needs.

If you’re going to switch from the food the breeder has been giving him, you can ask her or your veterinarian for advice on the best puppy food for his age and specific breed.

-AKC.org

It is important to do this safely and provide the proper training before you take off running! If you are a runner and think that your dog would be the ideal running partner, you may be right. However, there are some very important things to consider before hitting the pavement to ensure her health and safety.

1. Get clearance from your veterinarian. Your dog must be old enough – he can suffer serious injury if overly vigorous exercise takes place before growth plates are closed. The age at which this occurs varies with breeds. For young puppies and very large, heavy breeds of any age, sustained running is hard on the joints. Your veterinarian can also give your dog a general health check to make sure she is good enough condition to start an exercise program.
2. Consider the breed. Just because your dog is a running breed like a Greyhound or Whippet doesn’t mean that he can run long distances. These are bred to be sprinters. Anything more than a mile is a long distance for a Greyhound, but with proper conditioning he can certainly do more. After all, a pretty fast run for you is just trotting for him – not a full-out 35 mph run. Dogs bred for stamina to handle distance include Dalmatians, Siberian Huskies, and many sporting breeds. Dogs with brachycephalic faces (including Pugs, Bulldogs, and Boxers) may have trouble breathing when exerted heavily and should be exercised with great care.
3. Build up: Once your veterinarian has given the go-ahead, start off slowly to build up endurance. You would not start your running career with a marathon on the first day and neither should your dog. Half a mile every other day is a good start. It’s important to condition her slowly – just as you would yourself.
4. Humans are suited to long distance running. We sweat all over and know how to pace ourselves. Dogs, not so much. A Labrador retriever in excellent condition has a lot of stamina, but his enthusiasm can get the best of him – he might run until he drops. It’s your job to be the one who knows best. Know the signs of heat exhaustion and know what to do if this happens. Take water for your dog or a collapsible bowl if you are certain there will be water available along the way.
5. Run early in the morning or in the evening, not during the hottest part of the day. Pavement can get very hot and can hurt your dog’s paws. It’s also just plain hotter closer to the ground, where your dog is. In the winter, snow can accumulate between the dog’s toes, and salt on the road or sidewalk can be harmful. You’ll need to wash your dog’s feet after the run. You can also try booties that are made to protect dogs’ feet.
6. Training: Your dog needs to know the basics of loose-leash walking by your side before starting jogging. It is dangerous to have a dog that crosses in front of you or lunges to the side or ahead while you are jogging. Your dog also should be socialized and able to handle anything or anyone she sees on a run, just as she would be for any activity that she participates in with you. Use a special leash – one that is different than the one used for other walks. Your dog will learn the difference and will know that this is a run, not an amble to the park or a potty walk. And by the way, take your dog on a potty and sniff walk before the run and afterwards. This will eliminate the need for frequent stops on your run.
7. Something to consider for yourself: a hands-free leash. Holding a leash in your hand while you run doesn’t allow you to use your arms properly; you might end up with shoulder or back pain.

Running with your dog is a great way to get exercise and also bond with your best buddy. Your pooch may top out at two miles or he may become a long-distance runner. Each dog is different, and you know yours better than anyone, so watch carefully to be sure that he is running comfortably. Happy running!

-AKC.org